Following a memorable month in Miami, I meandered my way out of The Sunshine State, in search of what locals call “Old Florida.” Everyone agrees, Old Florida existed before theme parks and mega resorts. Some say it’s the west coast and to the north; others say it’s anywhere vintage (say, pre-1960’s) and now largely overlooked by the sightseeing throngs. To me, Old Florida means the places where Florida feels the most Southern and the least touristy, and the Spanish Moss hangs heavy in the trees.
TARPON SPRINGS
My Old Florida trip began on the Gulf side, north of Tampa. Less than an hour away is the coastal village of Tarpon Springs (pop. 23,000 and some change), which has the largest percentage of Greek people in the United States. A short distance to St. Joseph Sound and the Gulf of Mexico, Tarpon, as the locals call it, sits on the Anclote River and several bayous that flow to the Gulf.
The RV parks are family-run and decidedly old school; I loved my little spot on the river at Hickory Point.
On the Gulf, views cannot be beat at Fred Howard Park, a chunk of land on a peninsula smack dab in the middle of the water.
How did all those Greeks end up in western Florida? Natural sponges were discovered near Tarpon in the Gulf of Mexico in the 1880’s.
By 1905, sponge diving Greeks were recruited to Florida. They wore those heavy suits with the metal helmets back then; the helmet is a ubiquitous symbol around Tarpon Springs today, although modern divers no longer wear them.
While synthetic sponges all but eviscerated the natural sponge market, there are still sponge divers and boats at the Sponge Docks in Tarpon, along Dodecanese Avenue.
Greek Restaurants, all serving authentic, delicious Greek fare, tout flaming saganaki and other favorites. I couldn’t get enough grilled octopus and homemade baklava.
The Sponge Docks also have lots of boutiques and shops. It’s easy to spend the whole day there.
Over at St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church, Epiphany is celebrated on January 6, including youths diving for a cross and the blessing of the waters and the boats.
I missed the celebration by just a few weeks. I hope to return to Tarpon Springs for Epiphany next time I am in Florida for the winter, which should be Winter 2019/20.
WEEKI WACHEE
Less than an hour north of Tarpon Springs is Weeki Wachee (pronounced WeeKee WatchEE, Seminole for “little spring” or “winding river”), a small town in a rural area of Florida consisting almost entirely of sand, pines and palmettos. I stayed at a fish camp style campground that just screamed Old Florida – Cody’s RV Park, with lots of full-time residents, snowbirds from New England, and colorful characters.
My sole purpose in traveling to Weeki Wachee was to see the Mermaids of Weeki Wachee Spring.
Their show was a huge draw on Highway 19 in the 1950’s. Motto: “Swimming Our Tails Off Since 1947.“ Thank heavens the state of Florida purchased the property, turned it into a state park, and kept the show going. Otherwise, it would have faded into obscurity like so many 1950’s roadside attractions.
The Mermaids swim in an actual spring, where an underwater theater, so very mid-century modern, was built.
I was fortunate on the day of my visit; Mermaid alums, known as “Sirens,” performed after the main production. Most of the Sirens swam in the 1970s, one performed in the 1950’s, and another in the 1960’s.
They like to say Weeki Wachee is the fountain of youth. I teared up as they swam the finale to Elton John’s “Circle of Life.“
Along with the mermaid show, the park offers a boat ride, wildlife demonstrations, and a water park. The float on the Weeki Wachee River was brief but lovely, and there were plenty of manatees out and about.
CRYSTAL RIVER AREA
Last year I visited blog follower turned friend, Jane, in Crystal River, which is about a half hour north of Weeki Wachee. This year I took a day trip from Weeki Wachee to visit her in nearby Dunnellon, where she took me for a walk in the Blue Run of Dunnellon Park.
Crystal River is known for manatees, and the Manatee Festival was occurring while I was there. Having seen plenty of them, Jane and I opted for lunch, and a trip back to the rig for her to meet the pups.
HIGH SPRINGS
Last year for just a couple of days I stopped off in High Springs, near the Suwannee River and the Florida Panhandle, to visit friends Elayne and Russ. This year I stayed for a whole week.
I stayed at yet another another Old Florida campground, High Springs Campground, near the small town of the same name. High Springs is near Gainesville, and Elayne and Russ played tour guides, taking me to an art opening, consignment shopping, and dining out. High Springs is a great jumping off point for fishing and kayaking and outdoor activities. I could easily stay there for a week or more anytime I’m passing through the area, but of course I am biased because my friends are there!
TALLAHASSEE
In my travels I plan to visit every state capital, and I was pleasantly surprised by Tallahassee. The old and new state houses are lovely to photograph, there are quite a few good restaurants and bars, and there are distinct neighborhoods, including the up and coming, hip Railroad Square. Two colleges – FSU and FAMU, keep the city feeling alive and vibrant.
As I was staying for only two days, Beth at toursintallahassee.com drove me around for 90 minutes; I highly recommend her tours if you are in the area.
I will definitely return to Tallahassee and stay longer the next time I’m in Florida.
Where’s your favorite Old Florida?
This Post Has 19 Comments
Tammy, We really enjoy your stories of your travels. We thank you for them. Do you have any plans on coming back to Maine next summer? Would love to see you again.
Hi you two, and yes, if all goes according to plan, I’ll be back in Maine in September 2019.
Ah…Tammy you forgot the highlight…Florida “Sunshine” as we headed home…both drenched to the bone in a true Florida pop up downpour! Loved seeing you again…and the kids are wonderful! Hope to see you next year! Or maybe Washington this summer!
Hi Tammy,
We enjoy reading about your adventures – thanks for sharing !
Our favorite old Florida spot is Everglades City. There is a beautiful RV resort there called Everglades Isle Motorcoach Retreat. We live in Punta Gorda which is a small town of only 18,000 and only about 1 1/2 hours from us. Everglades City is a fishing town that at a time also mixed in the drug trade as an incoming port.
Fred
Fred, I spent some time in Everglades City last year. If I only had $1 million (or 10) I would by and restore the old Rod and Gun Club!
Always enjoy your travel notes and admire your independence and adventurous spirit. Flagler Beach used to be what I consider “Old Florida” and you gotta love Key West — don’t know what they look like now since it’s been many years, but they never were the commercial nightmares that Daytona Beach, Panama City and Ft. Lauderdale always were. Happy Travels, Tammy.
I watched the documentary about the Mermaids – very cool! My Dad has property in Old Town and I spent a couple of weeks there in my RV – lovely area!
Tammy,
Just learned of your blog a few months ago. I’m Larry from http://www.gypsylarry.com. Been full timing since 2009 and have seen a great deal. If yearning for another “Old Florida” village you must when you return go to Cedar Key. Quaint, great scenery, great photo ops and some of the best clam chowder in the world.
Hopefully one day our paths will cross. Heading north this week from FL for some health items. Travel safe.
GypsyLarry
Thank you for commenting, Gypsy Larry! New friends in Tarpon Springs told me about Cedar Key, and I will definitely stop the next time I’m in Florida – Winter 2019. Here’s hoping our health items are routine, and our paths do indeed cross somewhere down the road!
Wow, I was in Tarpon springs 20 years ago. From your pictures it really doesn’t appear to have changed. I hope you brought home a sea sponge, I think it’s the law that you have to buy one if you go there lol.
I know, right? Since no one really uses them as sponges anymore, they’re getting creative with works of art, planters, etc. I simply didn’t have the room for something like that!
Oh, I love Tarpon Springs and remember Weeki Wachee from a visit when I was a child. 🙂 I was going to suggest Cedar Key, but Larry beat me to it.
One other old Florida town is Apalachicola, on the Panhandle, just west of the big bend. Enjoy!
I got to explore Apalachicola last year – oysters!
Yes oysters!
Great story. Next time you are in south FL, visit Chokoloskee, just south of Everglades City. True old FL.
Hi Tammy,
I saw where you were just in Tallahassee, sorry I missed you as I live here in the Capitol city and would have loved to meet you and take you to some Tally spots but glad you got a tour. I started following your adventures when you sold your house and all your awesome mid-century treasures (that’s TOTALLY up my alley). I think I found you via RetroRenovation.com but not sure but have enjoyed following you. If you’re back in Tally ever and need a tour guide, let me know @ millie0307@embarqmail.com. Have fun!
Thanks, Millie! I’ll be back in Florida in Winter 2019. Looking forward to it!
Another great post at the perfect time… since we are heading that way soon. This time I will make sure I see Weeki Wachee… my Mom took me in the late 50’s and I still remember my fascination.
You didn’t mention it, but did you stay at a spot in Tallahassee that you enjoyed?
XODonna
Donna, even though Weeki Wachee is known for being open seven days a week, the best shows are on the weekends, FYI. I boondocked for two nights at the Tallahassee Automobile Museum through Harvest Hosts. The two main Tallahassee RV parks are about equal distance to downtown Tallahassee: Big Oak RV Park, and Tallahassee RV Park. My tour guide recommended Big Oak for the next time I’m in town. Friends have stayed at Tallahassee RV park several times and like it there. If you stay at the Automobile Museum or the Tallahassee RV Park, don’t miss Backwoods Crossing for a meal!